首爾離開了,我們繼續下一站的旅程,
來到福岡市區,這裡像東京一樣遼闊整潔且熱鬧,卻又沒有那般擁擠喧嘩,像是一座小東京。
各國觀光客沒有那麼多,但有好多韓國人;
平日城裡不那麼飛快,反而與人的距離感受近了點,不再只是匆匆而過。
時常忘了我們正在旅行,福岡裡有日常生活的簡單步調;
走進巷裡一起吃著拉麵、吃著福岡鄉土料理牛腸鍋,還有最喜歡的咖啡甜食,吃完再一起慢慢走回旅行的家。
Abeki |

位於福岡藥院地區的Abeki咖啡室,是不少旅人來到福岡必訪咖啡館之一。這裡以白調搭配日式木質,工作臺裡整齊陳列各式金屬玻璃食器,空間迴盪著祥和的旋律,都讓人印象猶新。
造訪的旅人幾乎都會點上一杯手沖熱咖啡,再配上老闆手作的起司蛋糕;像是咖啡室裡不成文的搭配組合了,也是初識Abeki 最迷人的方式。

老闆白長袍的背影站在爐火旁,忙碌有序的節奏裡,是一個個動作迅速有力。
「拿起爐火上的熱壺將水倒進另一個細嘴小壺,熱水注入咖啡濾杯裡,竄起了輕柔白煙,滿室咖啡香瞬時又添上一股厚實香氣。」眼前著實是一場Abeki 咖啡室限定最優雅的手沖演繹。
Abeki |官網
NO COFFEE |

位於街角的NO COFFEE 與剛剛提及的Abeki 約只有距離100公尺,這裡也是旅人必訪的福岡咖啡館之一,自己會對這裡特別情有獨鍾,則是因為店裡不只供應咖啡甜點,還有品牌自創的眾多商品,簡單印有 「NO COFFEE」 的帆布包,似乎當成福岡旅行紀念物也很不錯。


店內空間不大的NO COFFEE, 平日下午小小一家店裡坐滿了客人,這裡座位不多且感覺其實有點擁擠,因此決定直接外帶,於是點了招牌的黑炭拿鐵與之前也曾在東京Onibus Coffee看見的微笑餅乾, 就這麼在小街裡慢走邊喝。

五月夏初的福岡,有著暖活的陽光,感覺時光慢慢;看見巷弄小屋裡總有幸福停留,就連紅黃都那麼可愛。
Good up Coffee|

也是位於藥院站不遠的 Good up Coffee,這裡有療癒的奶油紅豆吐司。
Good up Coffee 店內不大,但風格簡樸清雅。使用自家烘焙豆供應義式咖啡與手沖咖啡,咖啡出名外,來這的客人幾乎也都會點上一份厚土司小點,綿密香甜的紅豆泥放上一整塊奶油,再灑上些許海鹽,自己是覺得整體鹽味太重,有點搶過其它配料的風味,J則是認為味道挺特別。
Good up Coffee|FB

siro coffee|


離開藥院地區,在早良區寧靜的小街裡,則有一間白灰悠然氣韻的咖啡小店 siro coffee,窗上掛著半遮的白布,成了咖啡館的裝潢特色,打開門走進的那霎那,裡頭雖已坐滿了人,卻能感受到那般怡然且自在。
以白色為基調的siro coffee ,店名siro 即為日文「白色」的發音。 從2017年開幕至今, 偶爾推出不同模樣口味的飲品小點,這裡沒有太過醒目的裝飾,整體溫溫的調性,我想也正是大家喜歡的原因。
siro coffee|IG
アマムダコタン amam dacotan|

你也是麵包控嗎? 那麼來福岡千萬別錯過中央區的 アマムダコタン amam dacotan ,每日新鮮供應玲瑯滿目的創意鹹甜歐式麵包。

你看過硬歐麵包裡夾上秋刀魚或者醃製水梨與厚切牛排一起嗎!或者老歐麵包裡有滿滿的烤南瓜蘑菇與培根!除了特別的鹹口味麵包外,店內也喜歡以不同新鮮水果當成餡料,而巧克力、奶油、香草在這裡也都只是再平凡不過的口味了。
記得當時下午去時, アマムダコタン amam dacotan 門上還有一進一出的入內規定告示,避免麵包店裡一下擠滿了人,輪到我們進去時,大部分受歡迎的品項都被一掃而空了,受歡迎程度可見一班。
アマムダコタン amam dacotan|IG

咖喱時々珈琲 ナミヒラ|


覺得日本人真的好會做咖哩, 而福岡咖喱時々珈琲 ナミヒラ 的咖哩飯,不只味美,也多了幾分創意。
咖喱時々珈琲 ナミヒラ 藏身於小街裡的舊建築,找到不起眼的小門後,需爬上螺旋樓梯至3樓,食堂裡簡單擺上幾張桌椅、舊唱片書籍與植栽,都是一些很居家的裝飾,一整面的窗口讓空間感覺沐浴於陽光底下。


成立近兩年的咖喱時々珈琲 ナミヒラ,是由一對日本年輕夫妻所經營的,先生掌廚,太太則負責外場,偶爾也會看見她走進半開放式的廚房裡幫忙,店內最有名的ナミヒラ 咖喱飯( ¥1200)每日限量供應,重口味的咖哩醬汁,辛香層次還有著香甜番茄味,再放了雞腿、醃菜、地瓜、堅果豆與辣肉醬,使用熊本縣玄米口感紮實嚼勁。
記得曾在直島 Cafe Konichiwa 吃過最想念的海鮮咖哩飯,此次咖喱時々珈琲 ナミヒラ ,也成了我們福岡旅行記憶中的一種美好味道。
延伸閱讀|直島 Cafe Konichiwa,老房子裡的海鮮咖哩料理。
咖喱時々珈琲 ナミヒラ|IG

博多もつ鍋 響|

來福岡怎麼能不吃牛腸鍋呢!曾與日本朋友在東京料理店裡嚐過那鮮腴涮嘴的牛腸鍋後,就一直念念不忘,這次來福岡怎麼可能錯過當地最出名的鄉土料理。
博多もつ鍋 響的牛腸鍋,則是入了滿滿的黃檸檬切片,酸甜入心的檸檬牛腸鍋,是湯頭多了鮮橙香氣,也因為富含維生素C,所以大受女性朋友的歡迎。
博多もつ鍋 響|官網

吃完檸檬牛腸鍋,若還覺得不過癮,也能慢慢走至入夜開始熱鬧的中洲屋台,體驗當地獨有的美食文化。

STANDARD MANUAL|


福岡美術館旁的 STANDARD MANUAL 與一般印象裡的生活選物店不太一樣,陳列裡多了些五金工具,還有軍風格色調的衣物與雜貨,這裡的商品皆由店主笹部浩昭先生選擇來自世界各地「不受流行影響的生活工具,以及使日常生活更加愉快的物品。」
賞心悅目的 STANDARD MANUAL 店鋪逛起來愉快外,品牌的網路店也建構的相當完善,若不確定是否該前往的人,也能先瀏覽品牌網店再做決定。
STANDARD MANUAL|官網

好喜歡走在福岡市區街道上的寬闊舒心氣息,是其它城市少有的。
曾經存在清單裡的設計保育園剛好距離福岡市不遠,我們搭上西鐵前往小郡市,尋找藤村龍至建築師的設計保育園,剛好遇見下課後的學童,將列車當成了最開心的遊樂園。

すばる保育園|
福岡小郡市的すばる保育園,好像藏在田野裡的一座粉色樂園。
記得曾在設計平台上閱讀到關於福岡すばる保育園的文章,即對那溫柔的弧形建築猶記在心。這次從福岡市區一小時抵達大保站,午後走在寧靜的小鎮裡,再穿過被風吹著、緩緩擺動的稻田。

「你看!就在前面耶!」遠遠的前方,是 すばる保育園 隆起像座小山的屋頂設計,我們倆興奮地加快腳步,直到清楚地看見整座建築。
2018年竣工的 すばる保育園 ,是由日本建築師藤村龍至所設計的,「建築主要劃分為兩個相連的個體,分別設計容納0-2歲與3-5歲的孩童,一邊望著無際的田野,另一邊則是面向蒼綠的神社樹林,能更自然地將風景收進眼裡;像座小山的弧形屋頂設計,則是希望建築能融入四方的自然景觀。」
すばる保育園|官網


此次也去了系島,待在山中的甜甜圈雜貨鋪裡;那天暖陽當家,也找了微風作伴。
くらすこと|


來日本福岡旅行已是興奮,這日再由福岡市區坐上列車來到系島市くらすこと小食生活雜貨鋪,加上步行時間共約一小時的路程;遠道而來的期待,在一看見山中的木屋時瞬間被療癒了。我們脫了鞋,就趕緊走進屋內, 喜歡這裡特別安靜的自然氣息。

木櫃裡是一個個妝點別緻的甜甜圈,點了黑糖 ( ¥210 ) 與檸檬金桔 ( ¥250 ) 兩種,再搭配生薑氣泡飲 ( ¥680 ) 和三年番茶( ¥500 )。 喜歡小小個頭甜甜圈有著綿密鬆軟的酥脆口感,黑糖粉嚐起來香甜不膩口;檸檬金桔外層裹上不會太甜膩的糖霜,還有糖漬酸甜果肉,兩款都好美味啊。
嚐完一樓屋內的小食茶飲後,別忘了由屋外邊側樓梯走上二樓生活雜貨舖逛逛,這裡有品牌精選來自日本各地的生活選品。
延伸閱讀|くらすこと山中的甜甜圈生活雜貨舖,那天暖陽當家,也找了微風作伴。













在《像是一座小東京,我們一起慢慢走回旅行的家|日本福岡》中有 0 則留言
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She tips outlined that arc along the man’s skin by measured slowness, as though softly mapping the softness of the surface.
Feather-light air swept across that collarbone and then his lover settled nearer, their skin pressing into quiet hunger.
Softly he replied by a long slow embrace of mouths and it opened only slowly, discovering every softness of his lover’s restraint.
All brush continued slow, tracing more not taking, allowing that heat grow amid delicate waves.
When her voice quietly whispered his name upon his mouth, that sound held the twin tenderness mixed with desire.
During this quiet silent moment she and he found a soft pace and it appeared not so much resembling haste and far more truer a private truth solely the pair between the lovers were able to treasure.
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The woman fingers outlined that shape along the warm collarbone using careful slowness, like if savouring the softness across the nape.
Feather-light breath brushed against that collarbone while her body settled into him, entwined bodies matching with growing hunger.
He answered in a slow deep mouth which grew almost without rush, savouring every tenderness within her restraint.
Every touch remained soft, learning in place of possessing, allowing that tension rise amid gentle surges.
The moment the woman at last breathed his whisper into her lover’s kiss, every word contained the twin care with longing.
During a deep silent calm she and he settled into one movement that became not so much as rush rather than closer to quiet promise just the two of the pair might treasure.
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A soft hands traced a soft arc over the man’s upper arm using careful hesitation, as softly savouring his temperature of her lover’s nape.
Quiet whisper kissed upon her lover’s throat and then the woman moved against him, entwined frames pressing into growing need.
He returned by that tender touch of lips which intensified only without rush, savouring every softness of the woman’s stillness.
Any contact remained gentle, discovering instead instead of possessing, feeling their warmth gather across tender rhythms.
The moment his lover gently murmured the man’s sound across her lover’s kiss, her whisper held together gentleness with desire.
Through the shared joined calm their bodies discovered an intimate cadence a rhythm that felt more of haste rather than instead a quiet promise that both among the lovers were able to share.
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Her fingers glided along that contour of her lover’s upper arm by careful rhythm, like if recording every softness of bare surface.
Quiet exhale kissed upon that skin and then her body pressed tightly, both bodies aligning amid soft need.
He replied by that tender kiss a kiss that deepened almost slowly, savouring the sweet flavour of her restraint.
Any stroke continued slow, learning rather instead of claiming, permitting the desire grow by delicate waves.
Finally when her voice gently murmured his sound upon her lover’s breath, every whisper brought together care mixed with need.
Within that common quiet both lovers created an intimate cadence and it became far less of need rather than truer a quiet promise merely they alone of them were able to share.
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She tips caressed the gentle contour across his skin with tender pace, as if if mapping every temperature on his skin.
Soft sigh kissed against that collarbone when softly she moved closer, both bodies fitting into quiet want.
Her lover returned with one slow embrace of mouths one that opened quite by degrees, savouring that tenderness of that quiet waiting.
Any touch stayed soft, mapping in place than claiming, letting that warmth grow across soft currents.
As the woman gently spoke the man’s name over his lips, the sound held the twin tenderness plus hunger.
In the shared silent pause both lovers found a pace that appeared less resembling need and rather like hidden bond just the lovers among their hearts could treasure.
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Her touch followed that curve over that broad neckline with tender grace, almost as softly mapping his temperature of the body.
Gentle breath touched against bare throat as her body pressed closer, entwined limbs matching in quiet want.
Her lover returned by that lingering lips and it opened almost by degrees, tasting that softness of that quiet calm.
Each touch stayed slow, tracing more instead of possessing, permitting their desire grow across gentle surges.
When his lover slowly breathed the call into his kiss, every murmur bore the twin softness mixed with hunger.
During that silent pause she and he settled into one cadence a rhythm that felt less of impatience rather than more to shared intimacy that they alone for the lovers could hold.
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Her digits stroked the soft curve on a lover’s muscular bicep by the delicate, lingering pulse, though if enjoying his warmth from warm arm.
Soft gentle exhale grazed on exposed open throat while lover leaned nearer, the shapes fitting one with soft, strong hunger.
In response he brought her into one lingering, growing embrace, enjoying soft delicate poise through partner’s answer!
The brush remained soft — learning rather over possessing — while the longing climbed by gentle, together rhythms.
With end the spoke partner’s name across the surface, the whisper holding twin gentleness plus yearning.
Within a deep moment both motions discovered soft rhythm this felt not than need while rather like one secret lovers could hold one!
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A tips caressed a gentle contour on a man’s muscular arm by quiet slow, lingering rhythm, though though relishing warm touch from the surface.
A gentle exhale brushed upon his open skin when she leaned tightly, shared bodies matching tightly in silent, quiet hunger.
For response he brought her to deep slow, strengthening embrace, cherishing her sweet hesitation within lover’s reaction.
The brush kept soft — sensing instead for taking – when mutual longing intensified through tender, joint pulses!
At time the said partner’s name on bare body, soft sound bringing shared tenderness and longing!
In that shared space their actions found soft pace it appeared not of rush or closer than shared mystery couple can share mutually.
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This pads stroked soft smooth shape across his male’s top shoulder by some delicate, savouring cadence, as if enjoying that feel from the body.
Gentle tender air caressed on bare bare collarbone while woman drew nearer, shared forms fitting as by silent, deep hunger.
As response he brought her to one gentle, building touch, savouring the sweet poise of partner’s response.
Any contact kept light — sensing more over taking — and both want rose amid tender, joint paces.
At last partner spoke the sound across his skin, that voice carrying twin care and yearning!
Within shared quiet moment both motions settled shared pulse which seemed less as haste while closer like shared promise they would share one.
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The fingers caressed the gentle contour on that his raised arm with quiet slow, extended rhythm, while when cherishing a touch against the body.
Gentle quiet whisper touched across the open nape as lover leaned closer, two figures matching tightly with quiet, profound hunger.
As turn man took lover toward slow gradual, strengthening embrace, relishing sweet gentle poise from woman’s answer!
All contact kept soft – discovering not to seizing — as mutual longing built with tender, joint cadences.
At finally woman whispered the sound on warm surface, this breath bringing both softness alongside desire.
Through a intimate time both actions found shared pulse and felt less as urgency or closer than one truth both could keep together.
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The digits traced a soft line across a his muscular bicep in the slow, slow pace, while as tasting warm heat upon his skin!
Soft gentle sigh caressed upon the naked skin as the leaned tightly, shared forms aligning tightly with silent, quiet longing.
With response man took partner inside the gentle, strengthening mouth, enjoying a sweet restraint from her response.
Any brush remained tender – exploring rather over seizing – when their desire intensified through tender, joint paces.
In end she breathed partner’s sound against his skin, her sound bearing both tenderness and hunger.
At that close second the caresses settled one cadence it seemed not as rush yet better to the secret both can hold mutually.
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Her digits traced the smooth arc over bare partner’s upper forearm with tender delicate, lingering pulse, while if savouring his touch against warm body.
The tender air swept across exposed exposed collarbone as woman pressed in, the frames melding one with quiet, quiet longing.
In answer partner pulled the toward the gradual, deepening touch, enjoying the sweet hesitation of lover’s response.
Each contact felt delicate — learning not of taking – though both longing rose through tender, joint paces!
With last the spoke the word against warm skin, this sound holding mutual care alongside desire!
At shared quiet moment mutual movements discovered a rhythm and seemed not like need or closer to shared mystery couple might preserve close!
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