首爾離開了,我們繼續下一站的旅程,
來到福岡市區,這裡像東京一樣遼闊整潔且熱鬧,卻又沒有那般擁擠喧嘩,像是一座小東京。
各國觀光客沒有那麼多,但有好多韓國人;
平日城裡不那麼飛快,反而與人的距離感受近了點,不再只是匆匆而過。
時常忘了我們正在旅行,福岡裡有日常生活的簡單步調;
走進巷裡一起吃著拉麵、吃著福岡鄉土料理牛腸鍋,還有最喜歡的咖啡甜食,吃完再一起慢慢走回旅行的家。
Abeki |
位於福岡藥院地區的Abeki咖啡室,是不少旅人來到福岡必訪咖啡館之一。這裡以白調搭配日式木質,工作臺裡整齊陳列各式金屬玻璃食器,空間迴盪著祥和的旋律,都讓人印象猶新。
造訪的旅人幾乎都會點上一杯手沖熱咖啡,再配上老闆手作的起司蛋糕;像是咖啡室裡不成文的搭配組合了,也是初識Abeki 最迷人的方式。
老闆白長袍的背影站在爐火旁,忙碌有序的節奏裡,是一個個動作迅速有力。
「拿起爐火上的熱壺將水倒進另一個細嘴小壺,熱水注入咖啡濾杯裡,竄起了輕柔白煙,滿室咖啡香瞬時又添上一股厚實香氣。」眼前著實是一場Abeki 咖啡室限定最優雅的手沖演繹。
Abeki |官網
NO COFFEE |
位於街角的NO COFFEE 與剛剛提及的Abeki 約只有距離100公尺,這裡也是旅人必訪的福岡咖啡館之一,自己會對這裡特別情有獨鍾,則是因為店裡不只供應咖啡甜點,還有品牌自創的眾多商品,簡單印有 「NO COFFEE」 的帆布包,似乎當成福岡旅行紀念物也很不錯。
店內空間不大的NO COFFEE, 平日下午小小一家店裡坐滿了客人,這裡座位不多且感覺其實有點擁擠,因此決定直接外帶,於是點了招牌的黑炭拿鐵與之前也曾在東京Onibus Coffee看見的微笑餅乾, 就這麼在小街裡慢走邊喝。
五月夏初的福岡,有著暖活的陽光,感覺時光慢慢;看見巷弄小屋裡總有幸福停留,就連紅黃都那麼可愛。
Good up Coffee|
也是位於藥院站不遠的 Good up Coffee,這裡有療癒的奶油紅豆吐司。
Good up Coffee 店內不大,但風格簡樸清雅。使用自家烘焙豆供應義式咖啡與手沖咖啡,咖啡出名外,來這的客人幾乎也都會點上一份厚土司小點,綿密香甜的紅豆泥放上一整塊奶油,再灑上些許海鹽,自己是覺得整體鹽味太重,有點搶過其它配料的風味,J則是認為味道挺特別。
Good up Coffee|FB
siro coffee|
離開藥院地區,在早良區寧靜的小街裡,則有一間白灰悠然氣韻的咖啡小店 siro coffee,窗上掛著半遮的白布,成了咖啡館的裝潢特色,打開門走進的那霎那,裡頭雖已坐滿了人,卻能感受到那般怡然且自在。
以白色為基調的siro coffee ,店名siro 即為日文「白色」的發音。 從2017年開幕至今, 偶爾推出不同模樣口味的飲品小點,這裡沒有太過醒目的裝飾,整體溫溫的調性,我想也正是大家喜歡的原因。
siro coffee|IG
アマムダコタン amam dacotan|
你也是麵包控嗎? 那麼來福岡千萬別錯過中央區的 アマムダコタン amam dacotan ,每日新鮮供應玲瑯滿目的創意鹹甜歐式麵包。
你看過硬歐麵包裡夾上秋刀魚或者醃製水梨與厚切牛排一起嗎!或者老歐麵包裡有滿滿的烤南瓜蘑菇與培根!除了特別的鹹口味麵包外,店內也喜歡以不同新鮮水果當成餡料,而巧克力、奶油、香草在這裡也都只是再平凡不過的口味了。
記得當時下午去時, アマムダコタン amam dacotan 門上還有一進一出的入內規定告示,避免麵包店裡一下擠滿了人,輪到我們進去時,大部分受歡迎的品項都被一掃而空了,受歡迎程度可見一班。
アマムダコタン amam dacotan|IG
咖喱時々珈琲 ナミヒラ|
覺得日本人真的好會做咖哩, 而福岡咖喱時々珈琲 ナミヒラ 的咖哩飯,不只味美,也多了幾分創意。
咖喱時々珈琲 ナミヒラ 藏身於小街裡的舊建築,找到不起眼的小門後,需爬上螺旋樓梯至3樓,食堂裡簡單擺上幾張桌椅、舊唱片書籍與植栽,都是一些很居家的裝飾,一整面的窗口讓空間感覺沐浴於陽光底下。
成立近兩年的咖喱時々珈琲 ナミヒラ,是由一對日本年輕夫妻所經營的,先生掌廚,太太則負責外場,偶爾也會看見她走進半開放式的廚房裡幫忙,店內最有名的ナミヒラ 咖喱飯( ¥1200)每日限量供應,重口味的咖哩醬汁,辛香層次還有著香甜番茄味,再放了雞腿、醃菜、地瓜、堅果豆與辣肉醬,使用熊本縣玄米口感紮實嚼勁。
記得曾在直島 Cafe Konichiwa 吃過最想念的海鮮咖哩飯,此次咖喱時々珈琲 ナミヒラ ,也成了我們福岡旅行記憶中的一種美好味道。
延伸閱讀|直島 Cafe Konichiwa,老房子裡的海鮮咖哩料理。
咖喱時々珈琲 ナミヒラ|IG
博多もつ鍋 響|
來福岡怎麼能不吃牛腸鍋呢!曾與日本朋友在東京料理店裡嚐過那鮮腴涮嘴的牛腸鍋後,就一直念念不忘,這次來福岡怎麼可能錯過當地最出名的鄉土料理。
博多もつ鍋 響的牛腸鍋,則是入了滿滿的黃檸檬切片,酸甜入心的檸檬牛腸鍋,是湯頭多了鮮橙香氣,也因為富含維生素C,所以大受女性朋友的歡迎。
博多もつ鍋 響|官網
吃完檸檬牛腸鍋,若還覺得不過癮,也能慢慢走至入夜開始熱鬧的中洲屋台,體驗當地獨有的美食文化。
STANDARD MANUAL|
福岡美術館旁的 STANDARD MANUAL 與一般印象裡的生活選物店不太一樣,陳列裡多了些五金工具,還有軍風格色調的衣物與雜貨,這裡的商品皆由店主笹部浩昭先生選擇來自世界各地「不受流行影響的生活工具,以及使日常生活更加愉快的物品。」
賞心悅目的 STANDARD MANUAL 店鋪逛起來愉快外,品牌的網路店也建構的相當完善,若不確定是否該前往的人,也能先瀏覽品牌網店再做決定。
STANDARD MANUAL|官網
好喜歡走在福岡市區街道上的寬闊舒心氣息,是其它城市少有的。
曾經存在清單裡的設計保育園剛好距離福岡市不遠,我們搭上西鐵前往小郡市,尋找藤村龍至建築師的設計保育園,剛好遇見下課後的學童,將列車當成了最開心的遊樂園。
すばる保育園|
福岡小郡市的すばる保育園,好像藏在田野裡的一座粉色樂園。
記得曾在設計平台上閱讀到關於福岡すばる保育園的文章,即對那溫柔的弧形建築猶記在心。這次從福岡市區一小時抵達大保站,午後走在寧靜的小鎮裡,再穿過被風吹著、緩緩擺動的稻田。
「你看!就在前面耶!」遠遠的前方,是 すばる保育園 隆起像座小山的屋頂設計,我們倆興奮地加快腳步,直到清楚地看見整座建築。
2018年竣工的 すばる保育園 ,是由日本建築師藤村龍至所設計的,「建築主要劃分為兩個相連的個體,分別設計容納0-2歲與3-5歲的孩童,一邊望著無際的田野,另一邊則是面向蒼綠的神社樹林,能更自然地將風景收進眼裡;像座小山的弧形屋頂設計,則是希望建築能融入四方的自然景觀。」
すばる保育園|官網
此次也去了系島,待在山中的甜甜圈雜貨鋪裡;那天暖陽當家,也找了微風作伴。
くらすこと|
來日本福岡旅行已是興奮,這日再由福岡市區坐上列車來到系島市くらすこと小食生活雜貨鋪,加上步行時間共約一小時的路程;遠道而來的期待,在一看見山中的木屋時瞬間被療癒了。我們脫了鞋,就趕緊走進屋內, 喜歡這裡特別安靜的自然氣息。
木櫃裡是一個個妝點別緻的甜甜圈,點了黑糖 ( ¥210 ) 與檸檬金桔 ( ¥250 ) 兩種,再搭配生薑氣泡飲 ( ¥680 ) 和三年番茶( ¥500 )。 喜歡小小個頭甜甜圈有著綿密鬆軟的酥脆口感,黑糖粉嚐起來香甜不膩口;檸檬金桔外層裹上不會太甜膩的糖霜,還有糖漬酸甜果肉,兩款都好美味啊。
嚐完一樓屋內的小食茶飲後,別忘了由屋外邊側樓梯走上二樓生活雜貨舖逛逛,這裡有品牌精選來自日本各地的生活選品。
延伸閱讀|くらすこと山中的甜甜圈生活雜貨舖,那天暖陽當家,也找了微風作伴。
在《像是一座小東京,我們一起慢慢走回旅行的家|日本福岡》中有 0 則留言
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